‘Tis the season for cheery beers

Look no further than the national Beer Judge Certification Program to discover that there are more than 100 distinct styles of beers being made in this world. While we’re fortunate to have access to a variety of classic beer styles in and around Madison, we’re also lucky that our local brewers take risks to make unique options, too. Of course, “unique” can be interpreted in different ways. For these brewers, that might mean brewing a beer they’ve never made before. It may mean tweaking this year’s batch to make it different than last year’s. It may also mean that it’s brewed in tribute to a cat. One attribute holds true across each of these beers: They’re sure to provide a unique story to share at the holiday table as you pass around a pour.

That’s One Cool Cat

Jim Goronson, president and head brewer of Parched Eagle Brewery, is as much a cat-lover as he is a beer-lover. Goronson adopted Stella, an indefatigable three-legged kitty, after she was hit by a car at the age of 3, then Goronson brewed a Belgian dark strong ale named Stella in tribute to her. As years passed, more Stella was brewed. Sadly, in May 2022, Stella the cat died. The sudden loss spurred Goronson to brew another batch of Stella as a final ode, but sticking with the same recipe wasn’t special enough. Goronson aged this version in red wine barrels to symbolize the affection and friendship he shared with Stella through the years.

Tasting Notes: Caramel, raisins and a hint of reduced raspberry sauce

Find It: Parched Eagle Brewery only

Flannel Not Required

In 2021, Clint Lohman, the brewmaster at Working Draft Beer Co., set out to offer Madison beer drinkers a bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout called Lumber Mouth — a rare offering from a brewery that leans toward lagers and IPAs. Lohman intentionally made this year’s version one of a kind by aging it in J. Henry & Sons’ Black Friday bourbon barrels, increasing the amount of hops used in the recipe and letting it rest long enough to create additional oxidized sherry-like flavors. This beer might just take the throne as the best barrel-aged beer to come out of Madison.

Tasting Notes: Chocolate oak and licorice flavor with a hint of marmalade

Find It: Working Draft Beer Co. and Madison-area craft beer retailers

Seasonal Spontaneity

Kyle Metz, head of operations at Funk Factory and a master of spontaneous fermentation, has also used barrel aging to create a standout beer. However, he opted to barrel-age a sour beer rather than the traditional stout that drinkers have come to expect out of a barrel-aged bottle. Metz has taken Perzik, which is a spontaneously fermented beer — refermented on 2.5 pounds per gallon of yellow peaches from Door County — and aged it in port barrels that were used to finish a whiskey from Wollersheim Distillery. Leave it to Metz to make an unconventional beer even more eclectic.

Tasting Notes: Creamy oak and vanilla flavors with a hint of whiskey and robust stone fruit

Find It: Funk Factory taproom only

Liquid Transportation

Beer takes you places, but it also brings you back to ones you know and love. For Tim Goers, head brewer at G5 Brewing Co. in Beloit, Falles is brewed to help him remember the late-night drinking, eating and dancing he did at Falles, a festival in Valencia, Spain, when he was 22. The Falles beer is a white stout (a stout brewed without dark malts to keep the color blond) with added cinnamon and vanilla. The brew is meant to embody the flavors of horchata, a beverage developed in the same region of Spain where the Falles festival takes place. While the beer is special on the inside, the outside label is worth looking at, too; the black label and flame signify the end of the festival when the city of Valencia burns papier-mâché statues.

Tasting Notes: Rice pudding-like flavor with cinnamon sugar flavors and vanilla

Find It: G5 Brewing Co. and Madison-area craft beer retailers

Rewriting History

Jessica Jones, advanced cicerone and brewmaster at Giant Jones Brewing Co., is fascinated by historic recipes. After reading about an old Dutch-influenced style that was produced in Antwerp, Belgium, in the 18th century, Jones decided to brew Antwerps Gerstebier, which translates to “Antwerp barley beer.” Rather than exclusively using barley sourced from a distance, Jones updated the beer’s grain bill to include raw spelt and oats from Meadowlark Organics in Ridgeway, Wisconsin, a nod to Jones’ focus on brewing with locally grown ingredients. This brew is a beautiful blend of something old and something new.

Tasting Notes: A hearty, nutty malt flavor complemented by pear and peppercorn

Find It: Giant Jones Brewing Co. and Madison-area craft beer retailers

Garth Beyer is a certified cicerone, senior content specialist at Encompass Technologies, owner of Garth’s Brew Bar and a Madison-based freelance writer.