It feels like Dickens’ “A Tale of Two Cities,” encompassed instead by eight downtown city blocks.
All it takes is a stroll along State Street these days — in the aftermath of the pandemic, civic unrest and ongoing mixed-use high-rise construction projects — to easily grasp the dichotomy. Some blocks feature restaurants that are open and vibrant, doing a brisk business as mask-free patrons return to a sense of normalcy. Others feature mostly boarded-up and/or vacant storefronts where new (and, sadly, established) restaurants fell victim to staffing issues, rising rent or insufficient customer traffic. State Street, still a heavy hitter in our fair city’s restaurant scene, feels trapped at a sort of existential crossroads, with strong pockets of success surrounded by reminders of what used to be.
Himal Chuli, the Nepalese restaurant that has anchored the 300 block of State Street for going on four decades now, is one of the survivors. Manager Sergio Gonzalez says the restaurant, opened in 1986 by Bishnu Pradhan, has returned to pre-COVID-19 capacity levels, having just come off a strong summer fueled by loyal regulars and students.
“Overall, the only real issue for us is staffing,” says Gonzalez. “Then again, it’s an issue for everyone.”
During the pandemic, several of the businesses on the 300 block (including Taiwan Little Eats, Parthenon Gyros and Mackesey’s Irish Pub) banded together to solve problems and find crisis-funding sources. A 10-story apartment and retail development meant relocation or closure for several small businesses on State Street and the surrounding area, including Casa de Lara.
Rising rent costs may be the biggest threat to Himal Chuli’s continued success. Still, Gonzalez can’t help but notice the boarded-up storefronts that litter the surrounding blocks. Or the restaurants, like the Peanut Butter and Jelly Deli, that have opened and closed within the last year. Other post-pandemic closures on State Street include HungryBadger Café, Crandall’s Peruvian Bistro, Rollicious Creamery, Espresso Royale and Pizza di Roma.
“It’s not as vibrant as before,” Gonzalez says. But State Street’s list of chain restaurants and storefronts continues to grow; a Target store opened on State Street in 2021.
Meanwhile, closer to Capitol Square, not far from where a lot of those boarded-up storefronts lie, 107 State continues to find its own way to survive.
“We’re still around,” says owner Nathan Mergen, who occasionally had to shoulder most of the load while running his upscale pasta and burgers bistro near the top of State Street.
“A year ago in June, we were one of the only open places at this end of the street,” says Mergen, who notes he’s finally returned to a fully staffed kitchen. “We were like the little engine that could.”
Honing the menu to focus on the pasta bar and fewer burger options is one strategy that has helped keep things humming. Like Himal Chuli, 107 State has been able to rely on a loyal customer base to keep things afloat. Mergen remains hopeful that the city will find a way to help juice the vibe on State.
“We need a campaign to get east- and west-siders back downtown,” says Mergen. “Downtown is still worth boosting.”
Alex Lindenmeyer, half the ownership team of Short Stack Eatery, paints a much bleaker, and more succinct, picture of the State Street restaurant scene. “Pretty depressing,” she says.
Steep rent and overhead costs have presented a difficult challenge for the longtime purveyor of pancakes and thick bloody marys. Early in the pandemic, Short Stack rolled out a GoFundMe, turning to its loyal customers to help get through the most difficult stretches.
“As an independent restaurant, we’re in a transactional business,” she says. “It’s hard to keep track of your financial picture. By the time you realize you’re in a financial hole, it’s too late.”
In recent weeks, Lindenmeyer has taken to social media to beat back the McDonald’s-fueled belief that breakfast food is uniformly cheap to produce. Most of her customers understand the vast difference between a McGriddle and Short Stack’s buttermilk pancakes. Still, Lindenmeyer would like to see the city come up with a plan to help subsidize overhead costs for State Street restaurants, especially those owned by people of color.
“COVID was a wrecking ball for us,” says Lindenmeyer. “It continues to be one for us.”
Aaron R. Conklin is a contributing writer at Madison Magazine.
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