Food

Bright lemon balances richness of one-pot pasta

Tomatoes may get more attention. But throughout Italy, lemon often finds its way into pasta. The sour and subtly sweet citrus balances the noodle’s starch and the sauce’s heft. It functions much like the freshly ground black pepper that offsets pecorino Romano in cacio e pepe. And it serves a similar role as tomato often does, providing acidity that cuts through cheese. The cooks at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street had this in mind for a spaghetti recipe that prominently features lemon. The bright, bracing zest and juice perk up the savoriness of garlic, pancetta and capers. A dusting of golden crisp breadcrumbs adds texture.