MADISON, Wis. -- "In Defense of Food" is everywhere on the University of Wisconsin-Madison campus this fall, and the best-selling book is sparking a lot of debate.

Author Michael Pollan's book urging readers to "eat food, mostly plants, not too much" is the subject of a new program in which incoming freshmen can get the book free and many professors are using it in classes. Pollan will give a lecture on Thursday at the Kohl Center.

The program has set off a debate over the American diet and food production system in classrooms and far beyond campus borders.

Some dairy farmers see the book as an attack on modern farming and are speaking out to defend themselves. Some university food scientists are criticizing some of Pollan's claims. And the growing local food movement is using the opportunity to spread its message.

Wisconsin's mainstream farming group, the Wisconsin Farm Bureau Federation, said the book is "littered with unsupportable claims" and called its conclusion downright "immoral."

Its members are just some of those getting actively involved in the book project -- and the controversy feeding its discussion.

The "Go Big Read" book project, a play off of "Go Big Red," is sparking a passionate reaction among some people. UW-Madison Chancellor Biddy Martin said she chose the book to "educate" and "exchange," and lots of people are doing just that.

"If big agriculture is feeling the heat they should -- they're selling us a lot of crap," said Don Helley, a University Bookstore worker. "It's garbage in, garbage out. That's why we have the heaviest population in the world."

On the other side, UW-Madison freshman Lauren Holterman said of Pollan, "I found a lot of his views on agriculture to be false."

Holterman is studying food science. She has her own small herd of cows and hopes someday to build an ice cream factory from their milk.

Holterman has been around animals, especially cows, all her life.

"They're my babies," she said of her cows.

She grew up on what is now an 800-cow dairy farm in Watertown and has just finished reading Pollan's book.

She said Pollan makes some good points about food, but like the Wisconsin Farm Bureau Federation, she said she feels he's unscientific and biased, especially against larger farms and their technology.

She said Pollan needs to visit a farm like hers, where the cows are comfortable, clean and air-conditioned.

"It's a controlled climate. The cows are happier with routine and controlled climate. There are no flies in that barn -- not one fly," she said.

UW-Madison officials said they aren't surprised it's such a hot topic because food involves human safety and the economy. They said they've been getting lots of questions about Pollan's upcoming appearances.

Pollan will give a public lecture at 7 p.m. Thursday at the Kohl Center. On Friday afternoon, there will be a panel discussion about his and others' views on the agriculture industry and food from 3:30 to 5:30 p.m. at the Union Theater.